Should You Stay in Amalfi Town or Positano on Your Visit to the Amalfi Coast
If you are traveling to Italy, you simply can’t skip the Amalfi Coast. We are talking about the coastline that faces the Gulf of Salerno and the Tyrrhenian Sea, some 40 miles (60 km) south of Naples. The area is so gorgeous that UNESCO included it in its List of World Heritage Sites.
The coast itself is some 30 mile (50 km) long. It’s where the Lattari Mountain range meets the Mediterranean. You will see tall limestone hills, tones of plants, valleys, cute little towns, impressive historic architecture, and beaches.
The best way to visit Amalfi is from Naples. Check out our 5 day Naples itinerary that includes Pompeii. We believe winter is a great time to visit the area too. Now, should you stay in Amalfi Town or Positano? Read our post and choose the right town for you.
Quick Comparison
The road that loops around the peninsula starts in Salerno. Thus, you will reach Amalfi first. It’s an unforgettable trip along steep cliffs offering epic views. Positano is 12 miles (20 km) east. Going from one to another takes an hour by bus.
Amalfi Town is bigger in area and population than Positano. Amalfi features older architecture and a nicer historic core. The terrain in Positano is steeper than in Amalfi. Thus, Positano is all about stunning views and treks above the hills.
We like the beaches in Positano more than the ones in Amalfi. Both towns have outstanding restaurants and bars. However, experts consider Amalfi wineries amongst the best in the country. Both places are super safe.
If You Have to Choose
We believe you should stay in Amalfi Town. In particular if you don’t want to go up and down the steep streets of Positano. We once went to both with our small nephews and found Amalfi easier to navigate.
To us, Amalfi has grandest architecture and more of an authentic vibe. It has a larger permanent population, so you get to experience local life. Both can get pretty crowded in the summer, but most tourist leave in the afternoon. Walking at night in Amalfi is magical!
If you are into beaches stay in Positano. If you like to trek, stay in Positano. Though both towns have lush green nature, the views in Positano are in a league of their own.
Amalfi Town
Main Sights
Amalfi’s epicenter is Piazza Flavio Gioia, directly on the coast. The town’s main street Via Lorenzo D’Amalfi, begins here. Walk along the street admiring the buildings until you reach Piazza Duomo, the nicest square in Amalfi.
The 9th Century Cathedral of Saint Andrew Apostle towers above the square. Climb the stairs and admire the views. Go inside and prepare to be dazzled. The temple homes the remains of Saint Andrew, brought in 1206 from Istanbul. Don’t skip the archdiocese and cloister.
Keep walking till the end of the street to the Paper Museum. You have to go up the hill to the Belvedere Cemetery. The 10th Century monastery became a cemetery in 1816. The views from there will take your breath away. A lift from Municipio Square takes you there.
Around Amalfi
Atrani is the smallest municipality in all of Italy. It’s next to Amalfi Town and for sure worth your time. To get there, walk 10 minutes east along the coast. There isn’t much of a sidewalk so be careful or take the bus from Flavio Gioia square.
The Collegiate Church of Saint Mary Magdalene Penitente from 1274 faces the sea. Its lavish tiled roof will make your jaw drop. A 2 minute walk takes you to the Church of San Salvatore de Birecto and its massive bronze doors brought from Constantinople in 1076.
A fun but not that tough trek takes you up to the Cave of Saints and the Santa Maria del Bando Church. It’s a fantastic place to catch a killer sunset.
Hotels
We love the Residence Hotel. The 18th century palace became a hotel in the 1950s. It sits proudly on the coast, in the center of Amalfi. Our room was extra comfy and had views of the sea. We even had a hot tub!
If you have the money to splurge, do so at the Anantara Convento di Amalfi. The 13th Century Capuchin convent became a fabulous hotel in 1882. Following a complete makeover in 2023, it is now one of the best hotels in Italy. You have to see it to believe it.
In Atrani, we strongly recommend the Palazzo Ferraioli Hotel. The seafront 9th Century palace has a fantastic pool, fantastic views, comfortable rooms, and a spa! The complimentary breakfast served in the patio is delicious.
Beaches
We have to be honest. Amalfi Town’s beaches are small. Thus, these are super crowded in the summer. Yes, you will be able to bathe and enjoy them, but if you are not into crowds, it’s better to visit the town in winter, spring or fall.
The best beach in Amalfi is the one in the center – Mandingo Beach. Private clubs with lounges occupy most the beach. You have to pay for an umbrella and a lounge. There’s a small free section. Atrani has a beach too. Again it’s small with just a section of free beach.
If you can’t live without a beach, book a room at the Santa Caterina Hotel. It’s got its own private beach. All you need to do is take a private lift carved into the cliff. The hotel is expensive, but worth every penny.
Positano
Main Sights
Positano Town is on the slope of a hill. Notice the narrow alleys that connect the town. Take these. If you get tired, rest a bit and continue. The views are totally worth it! Walk about and you will reach everywhere in no time.
Positano’s center is the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption. Originally a monastery, it became the baroque masterpiece we can see today in the 18th Century. The Roman Archaeological Museum is next door. It features roman remains, frescos, 17th-century catacombs, wall paintings, and crypts.
Keep walking up until you reach the Piazza dei Racconti. It’s a small amphitheater used in summer for local performances. Keep walking up to Santa Maria del Rosario Church and Mulini square.
Around Positano
As mentioned, Positano is famous in Italy for its treks. The most popular is from the center to Santa Maria del Castello, a tiny village up on the hills. It’s not that hard and it should take you 1.5 hours.
This area is called Valle di Centenaro. It takes you to Moiano, a tiny village full of flowers. The views from there are simply epic. Moiano is famous for its rural living and treks. The highest peak in Amalfi, Monte Molare is nearby.
It’s a harder trek, so we didn’t do it. We once took the cable car from Castellmmare di Stabia to the top of Mount Faoti. We couldn’t believe the views!
Hotels
Our favorite hotel in Positano is the Positano Art Hotel Pasitea. It’s kind of in the middle of the slope, so you don’t need to excerpt yourself. Beautiful plants and flowers cover the facade. Our room had a lovely balcony with awesome views over the sea and the hills.
To stay directly on the beach, book a room at Pupetto Hotel. It faces Fornillo beach. Book a room with a balcony and you will never want to leave. The hotel’s terrace is great, and the complimentary breakfast delicious.
Beaches
We like the beaches in Positano better than the ones in Amalfi Town. That said, do not expect long sandy beaches. However, since most tourists visit only for the day, you will be able to enjoy both beaches from 5 PM.
Positano Beach is in the center. It’s a wide but not that long pebbled beach with a small free section. Though Fornillo Beach is longer, its not as wide. Again, only a small section is free.
If you are a beach bunny, stay in Maiori, also in the Amalfi coast, but to the east. Maiori has the nicest and longest beach in the area. We spent a week at the wonderful Hotel Sole Splendid, the only directly on the beach. It’s near the bus stop and the boat stop that takes you to Amalfi Town and Positano.
