Is Palermo Worth Visiting? More Than You Think!
Sicily is our favorite place in Italy. We go almost every year. What can we say? We love it! With so many incredible cities in the country, you are probably wondering: is Palermo worth visiting? Our answer is a resounding yes!
Palermo is one of the nicest cities in Italy and Europe. No other place on the island has such a fantastic blend of architecture and nature. Everywhere you go is gorgeous! Palermo is on the north western coast of Sicily and dates back to some 2700 years.
That’s why it’s seeped in history and surrounded by lush nature. In fact, it’s the center of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Arab Norman Palermo and the Cathedral Churches of Cefalù and Monreale. Not only that, but its inhabitants are fun, warm, and the best cooks in Italy!
What is Palermo Like
Palermo is the capital of Sicily. Approximately 1,2 million people live in its Metropolitan Area, making it the 5th most populous city in the country. It’s also the financial, artistic, and tourist powerhouse of Sicily. Though Palermo can be a bit rough around the edges, its super safe and you can walk everywhere.
The city lies over the Mediterranean on the basin of three rivers: Oreto, Kemonia, and Papireto. However, the only one you can see today is the Oreto. Buildings cover the other two. The Palermo mountain range towers above the city. That’s why it has such incredible views at every corner. However, the center is mostly flat and compact.
Due to its location, it enjoys fantastic weather all year round. Palermo has some of the best architecture in Italy. You will see grand palaces and churches everywhere. At the same time, the city is a maze of narrow streets and cute little plazas. Every neighborhood is different and atmospheric.
Reasons to Visit Palermo
It is Home to a Beautiful Historic Center
We started our tour of the Old Town in Porta Felice, next to Palermo’s Port and Marina. Then we walked along Vittorio Emanuele Street, the city’s main drag. The first three buildings we visited are the Butera Palace, the Museum of Puppets, and the Chiaromonte Palace. The Garibaldi Gardens are next.
We walked along Vittorio Emanuele. The Vucciria Street Market is just before Roma Street. Then we continued to Vigliena Square. It’s our favorite spot with four tall lavish buildings, known as Quattro Canti. Pretoria Square is behind. The city hall is there. A few moments south is Ballaro Market, famous for its seafood.
We went back to Vittorio Emanuele and took Via Maqueda. Cute shops and cafes line the 17th Century narrow street. It goes all the way to the Massimo Vittorio Emanuele Theatre. We took the side streets and went to Capo Market, a fascinating street market. From there, we roamed the curvy streets and aisles of the Old Town.
The Cathedral is Outstanding
Though we’ve seen many churches in our life, Palermo’s Cathedral took our breath away. The 11th Century temple is in Cassaro Alto, just off Vittorio Emanuele Street. It’s impossible to miss the statue of Santa Rosalia in the Cathedral’s square. The famous portico with three arches is on the square.
The Diocesan Museum is to the left. It was the bishop’s palace. The massive bell tower is on top of the museum. Huge arches connect it to the Cathedral’s main facade. We entered the temple and were completely dazzled. The richly decorated side chapels contain the tombs of emperors and kings.
We visited the astronomer’s observatory beneath one of the domes. Then we visited the presbytery and the Chapel of Santa Rosalia, Palermo’s Patron. The Cathedral’s treasury is also impressive. Sett’Angeli Square is in the back of the Cathedral. There are some roman ruins in the plaza.
There’s a Unique Norman Palace
Villa Bonanno is meters from the Cathedral. It’s a giant park with tall palm trees and lovely trees. It’s the best place to chill under the shade if you are visiting Palermo in the summer. The fountain and statues in front of the Norman Palace are the Teatro Marmoreo from 1666.
Also known as the Royal Palace, the 9th Century structure towers above the park. It’s the oldest royal residence in Europe and a sight to behold. As mentioned, the palace is a UNESCO listed World Heritage Site. The palace hosts a mind boggling collection of art.
Our favorite part was the palace’s chapel. It’s on the first floor. The Norman King Roger II had it built in 1132. Splendid mosaics cover the chapel. Some are byzantine. There are Greek inscriptions and depictions of the Three Great Orthodox Fathers. The rest of the mosaics are Latin. However, the vaulted ceiling is Islamic.
There are Wonderful Churches
There are 85 churches in Palermo! You will see them scattered all around the city. We strongly recommend visiting at least 5. The church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio and San Cataldo Church are in Bellini Square, meters from Quattro Canti. They are both UNESCO listed sites.
It’s easy to recognize San Cataldo from its three red domes and Arab cornice. From there it’s a short walk to Pretoria Square. It’s got a fountain, tall palm trees, and traditional Sicilian wooden carts you can take to ride around the center. The 1640 San Domenico Church is the second most important in Sicily after the Cathedral.
The church of Saint Giovani the Hermit is next to the Royal Palace. The original temple from the 6th Century was a mosque, later a convent, and once more a church. Monreale Cathedral is 4 miles (6.5 km) from the city center. We took a public bus from the Royal Palace and got to the 12th Century temple in less than an hour.
Parks and Beaches are Splendid
From Porta Felice it’s a nice walk to the sea along the Foro Italico. It’s a long green area going to Villa Giulia, an 18th Century Park with two fountains. The Botanical Gardens are adjacent to the park. The gardens have some 1200 species of plants, historic buildings, and a modern herbarium.
From Vittorio Emanuele Theatre we went north to Garibaldi Theatre. Via Libertad starts here. It’s a fancy street that passes by Parco Piersanti Mattarella. Locals call it the English Gardens. The gardens are full of huge trees, plants, statues, fountains, and benches. Locals visit to take a break and socialize.
Mondello Beach is the nicest beach close to the center. Buses leave from Piazza Francesco Crispi and arrive there in 30 minutes. It’s a medium size beach with crystal blue waters surrounded by nature. We visited in the summer and in the winter and always had a good time.
Food is Delicious
One of the reasons we visit Sicily frequently is the food. The food is the best in Italy and we love eating in historic restaurants and outdoors. Our favorite coffee shop is Antico Caffe Spinnato 1860. Have cannoli and people-watch on pedestrian Via Principe de Belmonte.
We always go for dinner to Gagini Social Restaurant next to the marina. The restaurant used to be the home of 15th Century Sculpture Gagini. It’s a beautiful place full of art that specializes in slow food. One block south is Nni Franco U Vastiddaru. Locals love this simple sandwich joint.
Pizza Frida in the center is a must. For dinner and cocktails we recommend Seven Restaurant and Rooftop Bar on Via Roma. They have local wines and all types of cocktails. The views over the city are epic. For drinks and live music we go to Monkey Pub.
There are Great Museums
There are some 17 museums in Palermo. We mentioned the Butera Palace, the Puppet Museum and the Diocesan Museum. Other 4 museums are spectacular. The Catacombe dei Cappuccini houses 8000 corpses from the 16th Century till 1920. Eerie, but fascinating. The building itself is also interesting.
The Museum of Majolica Genius is in the Old Town. The private apartment has a collection of some 5000 tiles. Some are 500 years old! Besides, the owner and adorable cats live in the museum. It’s a bit hard to find. It’s on Via Garibaldi. We asked around. Everyone in the city knows about it.
Our favorite museum in the city is the Regional Archaeological Museum, behind the Massimo Vittorio Emanuele Theatre. It exhibits Phoenician and Greek art. There’s a garden with a coffee house and turtles. A block east is the Palace Museum Branciforte. The 16th Century palace has ancient art and a wonderful library.
Palermo has Great Hotels
The best places to stay in Palermo are in the center. We usually stay at the Grand Hotel Et Des Palmes. The 5 star property is three blocks from the Garibaldi Theatre. It’s a 1920s building with modern day conveniences. The service is in a league of its own. The complimentary breakfast is superb.
The Grand Hotel Wagner is a block away from the Grand Hotel Et Des Palmes. The lobby is stunning. The extra plush rooms feature high ceilings and wooden floors. It’s got a gym, restaurant, and a super cool bar. Even if you don’t stay here, stop for a cocktail or wine and mingle with the fancy locals.
Our final recommendation goes to the Palazzo Santamarina Luxury Suites and Spa. It’s a 17th Century palace one block from Via Maqueda. We celebrated our anniversary there and were treated like kings. The spa with its pool and vaulted ceilings is the best in Palermo. The sun terrace has unforgettable views.
Moving Around is Easy
We always walk around the city. The center is mostly flat and most attractions are close to each other. There are countless bars and coffee houses where you can rest and people-watch. If you get lost, ask around. The locals are super friendly and will be happy to help.
Biking in the center is next to impossible. It’s too crowded and it’s hard to find a place where you can tie your bike. It’s better to bike out of the center. We usually bike along the coast. The city keeps announcing a public bike sharing system. Better rent yourself one.
Though there are buses that cross the entire city, these are not that reliable. Especially at night. You need to buy your ticket in kiosks near the bus stops. We’ve purchased several tickets and hopped on buses without a problem. At nights we usually take taxis. Since the city is not that big, these are not expensive.
Fantastic Day Trips
Due to its location, Palermo is a great base to discover other wonderful places. We strongly recommend going to Cefalù. The charming little city is on the coast, some 40 miles (70 kilometers) east of Palermo. Its stunning 12th Century Cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you have the energy, climb the hill that surrounds the port.
We love nature and medieval towns. Madonie Park (Parco delle Madonie) is only 30 miles (50 km) south of Cefalù. The area is an oasis of clean air, huge trees, plants, fauna, and the most atmospheric little towns in Sicily. You can trek for hours. Another option is to do nothing and intake the beauty.
Evidently, a trip to Mount Etna and Taormina is a great idea. The impressive volcano is to the east of the island. Going on your own can take for ages. That’s why we recommend taking this tour. It takes you all the way to the top of the volcano and Taormina. You’ll be exhausted but happy. You can also go from Palermo to Catania. You will love Sicily’s second biggest city.
How Many Days in Palermo
The longest we stayed in the city was a month and we felt it was not enough! Nevertheless, we all have a huge world to discover and limited time. Thus, you are probably wondering how many days are needed in Palermo to cover the basics.
We believe that you should spend at least three days in Palermo. You will have enough time to see the city’s best attractions and eat delicious food. That said, to enjoy the nearby beaches and hills, we advise staying at least 5 days.
Everyone compares Palermo vs Catania. If you have a week, spend 3 days in Palermo, 3 in Catania and go to Syracuse or Taormina. No matter what you choose, you will fall in love with Sicily. All you have to do is come back, and enjoy the rest of its treasures.
